Flight from Bangkok to Yangon a quick hour, more tourists than I expected, when arriving at Mingaloon airport I noted the substantial military fighter jets on the runway. Stewardess over PA alerted us to turn our watches back ½ hour, I wasn't aware such a time zone thing was possible. In the immigration line, realized that many of the fellow passengers were part of a group of students from the University of Hawaii. Overheard that they were staying at the Inya Lake hotel and wondered what kind of picture they would get of Myanmar from their trip.

Changed $150 US into FEC's at the booth just past the immigration checkpoint. I attempted to walk straight through to the baggage claim area but was gently guided to one of the two Exchange booths. I actually got $148 FEC as they took $2 for fee for traveler's cheques. The official regulations stipulate that all tourists not on package tours need to change $200 USD, but I had read earlier on the Lonely Planet message board that FEC's were not getting an equal amount of kyats on the street as American dollars. So I asked the clerk in a trailing voice, "Do I have to exchange all $200…," to which she replied "Do you have a present for me." I had already prepared my $150 in traveler cheques with a new crisp $5 bill tucked behind, and handed all this over. There were three clerks in the booth (all women), and they all seemed "in" on it, another clerk crossed out the text on the form that said "KINDLY NOTE that it is compulsory for FIT and FV to exchange US $200 with FEC." After retrieving my bag, it seemed that everyone was being asked by customs to open up their luggage, and after my bag passed through the x-ray machine someone motioned me to go over to one of the inspection benches. However, no one seemed to be paying any attention so I just kept walking and soon found my way outside, free and clear. (I was probably being over paranoid, but I didn't want them to see my camera and film, nor the Lonely Planet guide for that matter.)

Caught a taxi into town with a driver named Kjaw (pronounced "joe"), he wanted $5, we settled on $3. I had picked out a hotel from Lonely Planet (pretty much at random), and of course he asked if I had reservations there and quickly produced a brochure for Beauty Land II hotel, explaining that they had air-con rooms, good location, etc., seemed a decent enough option and the air-con sounded nice. At any rate, I agreed I would take a look at it. I sat up front with him in what I think was a 20 year old Toyota, he chewing on the betelnut, pointing out various landmarks, including the street he lived on. Kjaw was in his twenties, although he seemed to be older than that, was single, and lived with his family. His English was quite good. Aside from pointing out the sites, he also taught me my first Burmese phrases, like mingalaba (all purpose greeting) and che zu tin ba de ("thank you"). Seemed to be about a half-hour tip altogether into the city center, traffic fairly mild.

Kjaw offered me his services as a guide for an afternoon visit to Shwedagon, said he had just gotten his "guide license" and so would give me a deal of $5 (including transportation), talked him down to $4. Wasn't sure if it was a deal or not, but I accepted.

Hotel was fine, very nice and friendly folks running it, $10 for a single room with air-con and tv, hot shower included, as well as breakfast. Didn't see any point in looking elsewhere, nor did I feel like trying to bargain them down, though I probably could have (didn't see very many other travelers at the hotel during my stay).

After getting settled in the room, decided I'd visit Sule Paya nearby. On the way out of the hotel, changed $10 FEC into kyats, at a rate of 530 kyats to $1 FEC (if I had changed dollars, rate would have been 550 K/$1). Kjaw said the rate was hovering around 600 K/$1 after soaring up to 900 K/$1 the week before, precipitating the police going around and temporarily closing down many of the money-changing shops. Also inquired at the hotel about bus transportion to Mandalay, they said they could sell me a ticket for 2000 kyats, meals not included.

Walked to Sule Paya, stopping at the Myanmar Travels and Tours office across the street from the pagoda, bought a Yangon map from them for 50 kyats (may have overpaid, there was some confusion as to exactly how much the map was). Inquired about bus transportation to Mandalay, was quoted $10 FEC for a bus trip that included meals. Picked up some free brochures as well.

As I got across the street to enter the pagoda, was met by Hillary, a man in his fifties who spoke good English, and who accompanied me into the pagoda, showing me where to leave my shoes, etc. Couldn't get rid of him as I walked around the pagoda, which was packed with people (he explained that many of the people were visiting on their lunch breaks), so eventually sat down and chatted about ½ hour with him, he quite openly discussed things and I was a bit suspicious of him, so mainly I listened. I would have preferred to just observe the Burmese at the pagoda, there was something quite wonderful about the place, quite small and local, yet right in the middle of the confluence of busy streets (its placement reminded me of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris). Naturally I was stared at constantly, and didn't see any other tourists, though there was one other foreigner, a Westerner with hair longer than mine, dressed in a longhi and talking with a monk. Not surprisingly, Hillary pitched me his services as a guide for various sights in Yangon, including a monastery school near the airport, where I could observe novices studying, which intrigued me, though I remained non-committal. Got his details of how to find him (photo stand in one of the shops that rings the pagoda), tipped him $1 (he seemed very pleased by this), and walked back in the direction of the hotel.

Stopped at the Golden City Chetty Restaurant, an Indian place that was mentioned in the Lonely Planet and was close to the hotel, noted that only men were in the restaurant eating. Ordered vegetable curry, was given a tin with rice and three different curries, as well as a plate of large crackers (what are these called?), and a large plastic bottle of water. The rice and curries would be refilled when I was finished, hence I was stuffed by the end of it. Total cost, 310 kyats. Seeing all the patrons eating their food with their hands was a sight I needed to get used to, the staff produced a fork for me without my asking.

Kjaw picked me up at 3:30pm, and we drove to Shwedagon Paya. Kjaw suggested I leave my shoes in the car otherwise I'd have to carry them around in a plastic bag, the parking lot was not kind to my soles. Paid $5 entrance fee (in FEC) (for Burmese the Paya is free), and made the slow walk up the South entrance (Kjaw suggested taking the elevator but I declined, didn't feel it was "right"). We walked around for nearly 2 hours, it rained some and the floor was slippery. I wanted to ask Kjaw if I could walk around a bit by myself but did't feel I could get this across, and he was obviously interested in giving me a proper tour of the place, and had quite a few facts and stories and historical legends to impart. Later he asked one of the photographers that mill around the place (as at all temples and other places that attract a lot of Burmese) and take photos of Burmese for a small fee to take our picture, I forget what kid of camera the guy had but it was decidedly ancient, and cost him quite a sum, I couldn't help feeling a bit ashamed of my expensive Canon. During one of the raining spells Kjaw and I sat at of the covered worship areas, and he tried to sell me on a car tour of Myanmar, with his friend as driver, I don't remember how much he quoted, I believe it was five or six hundred dollars for the 2 ½ week tour, but I politely declined. I only saw 2 or 3 other tourists the entire time we were there, and despite the rain there were many Burmese. I had no idea that in addition to the main stupa there were so many tertiary temples and shrines surrounding it. I told myself I would come back at the end of my trip before flying back to Bangkok.

I asked Kjaw to recommend a Burmese restaurant, and he took me to Danuphyu Daw Saw Yi, which was not too far from the hotel, and he came inside with me, which surprised me. Food was two vegetable dishes with two huge servings of rice, plus a bottle of Mandalay Strong Ale, totaling 670 kyats (the beer was 400 kyats of that). Kjaw didn't eat (he explained he would eat with his mother at home), but did share a glass of beer with me, and we chatted about various things.

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