Feeling itchy

Not literally, at any rate (for some reason, mosquitoes don’t take to me like they do to Naoko). No, feeling itchy that more than a week has gone by since my last post. Unfortunately I don’t have too much to report at the moment, I’m busy trying to find a Japanese language school, and trying to disclipline myself to self-study until I find one.

I did recently create some desktop wallpapers of some of my Japan 2002 photos, should you be interested, found here. I was inspired to create these by downloading some interesting wallpapers from Tokyo designer/photographer Tomatocow (after entering the main site, click on the “wallpapers” link). There are some other great Tokyo wallpapers available at panoramic photographer Tsutomu Kuriyama’s site.

Speaking of photography, after being lazy for the last couple of weeks, I have managed to upload a few days’ worth of photos, including a bunch from a bus tour the family took to Yamanashi prefecture a couple of hours away (though with traffic, it was a 4-hour trip each way). Ironically, one of the highlights of the tour was the impressive whirlwind mini-tour of Tokyo I got in the morning as the bus made its way west out of the city via the Shuto Expressway, and the companion view at night as the bus returned to the city, reversing the morning route. Passing through many of the main Tokyo hotspots, Ikebukuro, Korakuen and the Tokyo Dome, Kitanomaru Park and the Budokan, Akasaka, Meiji Shrine, Shinjuku, and being high-up on a bus already high up on the Expressway, I got a view of the magnificent and gigantic city that I hadn’t ever seen before.

On the way back from Yamanashi, before entering Tokyo, we could see way off in the distance fireworks, yet another fireworks festival (hanabi) during a summer teeming with them. I had no idea where it was, but the next day (Sunday) I was checking Antipixel, and Jeremy had uploaded some photos from a previous night’s Tamagawa hanabi festival. Considering that we had to cross the Tama river to get back into Tokyo, I’m fairly certain these were the fireworks we could see from the bus.

I’ve taken some photos at the two hanabi festivals I’ve been to recently, but sans a tripod, my shots have been disappointing. But Jeremy has really captured the essence of what the sky looks like on such an occassion. Definitely worth a look.

Vending machines far and wide

vendingmachine.jpg

Most first time visitors to Japan remark on the amount of vending machines in the country. I surely did. Like pubs in England, there appears to be at least one, and sometimes more, on every single corner. Across the street from where I live, there were actually two, until a few months ago when one day we discovered they were no longer there, having been spirited away in the middle of the night presumably by whatever vending company had put them there in the first place. And I must admit that what had always struck me as a blight on our neighbourly landscape had suddenly overnight turned into a gaping hole, something missed, a symbol of Japan ripped out of the ground as if it were a cherry blossom tree. Nevermind that I had never partaken of its riches save for one desperate morning when there was no time for brewed coffee and I was trying to stave off the impending caffiene headache (yes, many vending machines carry both hot and cold canned coffee).

jidouhanbaiki.gif

I remember having to learn the kanji for “vending machine” in one of my Japanese classes at Soko Gakuen in San Francisco. I’m not sure what took me aback more: actually having to learn what surely can’t be one of the, say, thousand most important kanji in the Japanese language, or the sheer length and inpenetratability of the compound (yes, I’ve reproduced it here so you can see this for yourself). Made up of 5 separate kanji characters, I think the only reason I actually bothered to learn how to read and write the thing was some sort of imagined ego-stroking I might later gain by being able to scribble it for native Japanese (needless to say after the course was over I quickly forgot it). Being in Japan, I have seen no need to reaquaint myself with this kanji save for this here post. It’s not like I need for the actual vending machines to display signs letting me know what is already quite obvious — that they are, in fact, vending machines. (I’m being somewhat apocryphal here; of course the individual kanji are eminently worth learning).

I do find it curious — but heartening, I should hasten to add — that in a language that everyday seems to add a new “loan word” to its vocabulary, the Japanese actually organically created their own word for vending machine, complete with its own kanji: ji-dou-han-bai-ki. I’ve broken it up here along the lines of its 5 kanji characters, but in reality the word should be broken down into 3 kanji compounds, as follows:

jidouhanbaiki_break.gif

I haven’t been able to determine when or exactly how this word started to appear in the Japanese lexicon, although the Koujien dictionary seems to suggest it had its origins in Automat, the name of America’s first fast-food joint, which served food via coin-operated machines in waitress-less restaurants beginning in 1902.

The history of the actual machines is a bit easier to trace. According to this site (in Japanese), the first patent for vending machines in Japan was filed in 1890, but the first working machine was not introduced until 1904, when the Japanese Postal system used wooden machines to dispense stamps and postcards.

It wasn’t until the 1960’s, however, that vending machines began to really make an impact on the Japanese consumer landscape, due largely in part to American soft drink makers led by Coca-Cola who needed a way to quickly saturate the Japanese market with their product. (This site attributes the rise of the vending machine to the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, but I haven’t found other sources backing this up).

In 1967, with the introduction of a new nickel-based 100-yen coin into circulation (replacing the prior silver-based coin), vending machines started to take off. A year later, Japan National Railways (presently Japan Railways) introduced ticket vending machines into all the stations in Yamanote Line in Tokyo, further solidifying the proliferation of automated machines.

According to this TIMEasia.com story from last year, there are now over 5.5 million vending machines in Japan, pulling in more than $56 billion (USD) in sales annually. America has more: according to this story in Nipponia, in 1997 there were 6.89 million in the US. But of course, there are twice as many people in the states. Going by these figures, in America there is approximately one vending machine for every 39 people; in Japan, one machine for every 23 people.

Looked at another way, in Japan, which has a total land area of only 374,722 square kilometers, there are approximately 14.5 vending machines per square kilometer. By contrast, in the United States, with its vast total land area of 9,158,160 square kilometers (5th in the world just behind Canada, in case you were curious), there is less than one vending machine per square km (.75 or three-fourths of a machine to be exact).

I think it’s this sheer volume and the ubiquitous nature of these automated wonders that impresses the visitor most, much more so than the endless variety of goods found in them, including those near-urban legend used panties worn by Japanese schoolgirls that were briefly available in 1993. There’s just something a bit disconcerting about jidouhanbaiki propped up against garages or sides of houses in residential neighborhoods. However, if you manage to be in Japan during hot and humid summer season, it’ll all start to make sense, and you’ll be thanking whoever put them there. But if only they’d be stocked with more bottled water and less Pocari Sweat

Suicides and life expectancy in Japan

Last week Japan’s National Police Agency released a report that showed that last year, 31,042 Japanese committed suicide. This figure marked the fourth straight year that suicides in Japan had surpassed 30,000. To put these numbers into perspective, consider that during 1999 in the United States, 29,199 people committed suicide, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. In other words, Japan has more suicides per year than the US, yet it’s population is less than half that of the States (127 million people in Japan vs. 288 million in the US).

Of the 31,042 suicides recorded by the National Police Agency, 6,845 of them were attributed to distress over economic problems brought on by Japan’s decade-long recession. 71% of all suicides last year were committed by males.

As Shigeo Masui recently opined in the Daily Yomiuri,

[Recent suicide figures are] in contrast to a decrease in the number of deaths from traffic accidents in recent years. The number of annual traffic deaths, which had continued to increase for many years, has dropped below 10,000.

Though suicides now total 30,000 annually and outnumber traffic deaths by three times, few people bother to squarely discuss suicides as an urgent matter of social concern. Suicides are instead overlooked and dismissed as isolated individual problems. Yet, the increase in the number of suicides signifies a protest against contemporary Japanese society.

I was reminded of this story by a seemingly unrelated item from the Associated Press a couple of days ago (available here at nj.com) on how Japan’s life expectancy rates have reached new international heights, breaking records for the second year in a row. The Health, Labor and Welfare Ministry announced that Japanese women now have a life expectancy of 84.93 years, while Japanese men are expected to live to 78.07 years.

What jolted me a bit in this otherwise benign story, and what caused me to recall last week’s suicide rate story, was this throwaway paragraph:

Japanese have had the longest life expectancy for years, though suicides linked to the country’s economic stagnation caused the figures to decline in the late 1990s.

At the risk of being flippant when it is not my intention, it occurred to me that “life expectancy” could be read in another rather more downbeat way and I couldn’t help but wonder what each of those 31,042 suicides had expected out of life and how the realities must have been in such discordance with those expectations that they resorted to suicide. (As T.S. Eliot wrote, “Between the idea/And the reality/…/Falls the Shadow”.)

Last week, in its story about the suicide report, Japan Broadcasting Corp (NHK) ran a feature about one man in his early 30’s, and married for less than a year, who committed suicide last year because he could no longer put up with the amount of overtime he had to work at his company. This man worked an average of 90 hours per week, with seemingly no choice or option available to him other than to either continue toiling miserably or to end his life.

To cope with the post-bubble economic recession, Japanese companies have accelerated what’s euphemistically called “restructuring” (risutora in Japanese), or downsizing, so that now a job that may have once been done by five workers is now done by two. Through an unhealthy mixture of a mountainous workload, loyalty to the corporation (that in many cases has been a worker’s lifetime employer), and the sublimation of individualistic impulses for the betterment of the group (read: to company and to co-workers), many workers feel they have no choice but to agree to log long hours of overtime, some of which may actually be “donated” to the company and not compensated.

Japan’s Health Ministry has actually since 1987 kept statistics on the amount of deaths due to overwork, known as karoushi in Japanese. (In 2001, 143 such cases were recorded). One of the points of the above-mentioned NHK story was that because the man’s death was clearly a suicide (he left his wife a suicide note), it is not considered a karoushi case, and therefore his company is absolved from any complicity in his death.

There are other elements at work here besides a depressed economy and loyalty to the group/company, including the honored place that ritualized suicide has in Japanese history and the lack of shame that accompanies committing suicide in Japan as compared to the West. Writes Chika Watanabe in “Suicide and Modern Japan,”

Japan as a culture offers suicide as an option in life. The great influence of Buddhism in this country is reflected in the way Japanese people do not see life and death as separate.[…] For the Japanese, death has never been punishment, and suicide never a sin. Suicide was rather a dignified renouncing of the world in which they live, to compensate for a wrong-doing or to demonstrate their spiritual strength by showing total self-control in bringing about their own ends

Rather than bringing on shame and disgrace, suicide for many Japanese has been a way to avoid shame, and indeed of gaining honor. And, writes Watanabe, “suicide is a form of protest, indirect and thus the most powerful, for Japanese society would reject opinions directly voiced.”

I also cannot help wondering whether the stigma attached to psychotherapy by many Japanese plays a part in all this. In Masui’s Daily Yomiuri editorial, he paraphrases from an article by former Tokyo Institute of Psychiatry researcher Yoshitomo Takahashi:

[Takahashi] said middle-aged men’s suicides are closely related to depression but only 10 percent to 20 percent of them had received psychiatric treatment. Takahashi regretted that those suffering from depression are left unattended despite the availability of effective treatment.

For those 10 to 20 percent that seek treatment, one has to wonder how effective it is. As this 1995 article by Yutaka Ono, M.D. and Douglas Berger, M.D. points out, due to Japan’s national health insurance system, “the importance of psychological approaches such as psychotherapy tend to be neglected compared to that of more medically oriented procedures.” And because it’s in the doctors’ best interests to see as many patients as possible, coupled with Japan’s lack of practicing psychiatrists (only 8,000 in 1995; by contrast, in the year 2000 the United States had about 40,000 practicing psychiatrists), the treatment’s efficacy could be called into question.

In the end, the only thing we can be sure about those 31,042 Japanese who committed suicide last year is that they probably did so for 31,042 different reasons, and it’s the inability to answer the “Why?” question that probably troubles the survivors and the country at large most. How to prevent or curtail these suicides is an issue governmental ministries such as the Health, Labor, and Welfare Ministry are looking into (the Ministry began a 3-year study last year to explore “multidimensional approaches to suicide prevention“).

Let’s hope their conclusions and suggested measures are a little more sensitive than those proposed by the East Japan Railway Co. (JR East) last year after a spate of suicide incidents at its Tokyo stations. According to a well-said Japan Times editorial from last year, the company planned to install huge mirrors (the thinking being that people would be less inclined to jump if others could see them), and paint crossings in bright colors to cheer up potentially suicidal commuters. Why? Because suicides are bad for business. They mess up train schedules (not to mention the fronts of trains) and piss off other commuters. Said a JR East spokesperson at the time, “a suicide delays train schedules” and produces “floods of angry phone calls.”

I have my doubts though about the Health, Labor, and Welfare Ministry’s study. In the article linked above, it’s explained that among the 18-member study panel put together are architects who will be charged with determining “whether the designs of roofs and railway platforms can be altered to help prevent suicides”. Hmmn, surely that will get at the root causes.